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©Archivio Guide Alpine Cortina

Via ferrata Giovanni Lipella

The via ferrata Giovanni Lipella is characterized by its spectacular route along ledges and steep rock steps,  that leads through the war works of WW1.

This Via Ferrata should not be underestimated: it is long, demanding, requires an excellent physical condition and mountain experience, especially with snow. It takes 6 hours to climb the via ferrata, 8 hours to reach the summit.

It is recommended to pay attention to rockfall caused by other climbers or by thaw. Much caution is advised in case of early snow or snowfall in autumn: especially at the beginning of the climbing season, the upper section of the route is often covered with snow. In this case, it is advisable to have a suitable equipment.  

Start early in the morning.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Difficulty: medium-difficult

Departure point: Dibona Refuge

Arrival point: Dibona Refuge

Total duration: 6 – 8 ore/hrs./Std.

Total difference in altitude: 900 m

Vertical drop on the ferrata : 600 m

Altitude at starting point: 2.740 m

Altitude at arrival: 3.225 m.

Maximum altitude: 2.980 m

Access:

at the Angelo Dibona Refuge, which has a large car park, take hiking trail no.440 under the Tofana di Rozes to the Castelletto tunnel. To access the tunnel entrance, you have to overcome large equipped rock steps.

Ascent:

After the entrance to the Castelletto gallery, located at 2,740 m of altitude, the route leads along the west - north-west slope of the Tofana di Rozes.
The peculiarity of this via ferrata is the ascent along ledges and steep rock steps.
The first escape from this via ferrata is at the fork Tre Dita (2680 m).  From here you can reach the Giussani Refuge in about 45 minutes.
To reach the summit, climb to the right over steep rock steps, overcome a demanding rock ramp and reach the secondary summit, where the via ferrata ends.
Following the trail, you finally reach the summit cross at 3,225 m. of altitude.

Return:

Return to the secondary summit on the route you got up, then follow the normal route marked in blue on the right. The path leads downhill, over scree terrain and rock ledges, to the Giussani Refuge and, from here, back to the Dibona Refuge.

 

Peak: Tofana di Rozes, versante ovest/western slope/Westhang

Orientation: west - north - west

Gear: *a normal via ferrata set and a headlamp for the Castelletto tunnel .

Best time of year: from June to October